Opening Cam Emirali's spring menu are two flaky caramelised onion tarts, brimming with torn burrata, artichoke, roasted peppers and olives, and dressed with nutty wild garlic pesto. Cam bones his lamb shoulder and marinates it in garlic and rosemary before trussing it up and braising it gently for 5 hours. Once he’s removed it from its rich liquor, later destined for gravy, Cam wraps the lamb tightly so the flavours meld together and it comes out as a tender round. The lamb accompanies a warm salad of spring cabbage and peas tossed with picked mint, lamb jus, and golden roast potatoes. Surely, by this time, with zips undone, dessert is a hazelnut dacquoise, a mess of meringue and lemon curd, rose-scented rhubarb and crème fraîche.